Your travel guide to Ocracoke Island on the Outer Banks

OCRACOKE, N.C. — Ocracoke Island, the fabled stretch of land off the mainland of North Carolina, serves as the undeniable pearl of the Outer Banks. Sandwiched between the Pamlico Sound and Atlantic Ocean, the island is an oasis for day-trippers from nearby Cape Hatteras or the more adventurous who prefer to stay a few days, a few weeks or even a lifetime. The island caters to many tastes, all of them beginning and ending with relaxation. It’s a worry-free locale that once appealed to Blackbeard. And after seeing what the destination has to offer, it’s no wonder the legendary pirate frequented these shores.

I arrived for a three-night stay on Thursday, July 5. The weather promised plenty of sun for the elongated July 4th weekend, and with seemingly no pollution in the air (compared to the skies around New York City, this is downright Edenic), Ocracoke Island was ready to provide an ample background to a great mini-vacation.

After taking the 45-minute ferry boat ride from Hatteras, N.C., a service that dates back more than 50 years and is one of those rare modes of transportation that’s actually free, we headed along Route 12 to the village of Ocracoke. Although vehicles are allowed on the island, golf carts and bicycles are slowly taking over the traffic lanes. The automotive evolution makes perfect sense. When the island is packed during the height of the tourist season, parking can be difficult, and it’s always nice to walk around without constantly worrying about cars on the road.

We checked into a pleasant harbor-side hotel called the Ocracoke Harbor Inn & Suites. Our second-floor room with two queen beds and a balcony had a great view of Silver Lake, the beautiful inlet of Ocracoke where boats of every size are docked. The air conditioning kept the room wonderfully climate-controlled, and the continental breakfast, featuring muffins, cereal and pastries, hit the spot every morning. Conveniently located near the center of the village, the hotel was close enough to the restaurants and shops that walking was possible almost all the time. Plus, the Ocracoke Lighthouse was only a couple blocks away.

There are many things to do on Ocracoke, but three categories emerge right away: the beach, the quaint stores, the delicious local cuisine. We took advantage of all three categories, and rarely walked away from a purchase, meal or pile of sand we didn’t love.

The best shops were the ones off the beaten track, down the side roads and away from the hubbub of Route 12. We picked up homemade fig jam in one spot and some painted wine bottles in another. An artist print of an Ocracoke inlet painting cost only $20, while local crafts and knickknacks were a little pricier. Plenty of Blackbeard memorabilia can be found in the shops. The famed pirate (real name, Edward Teach) is believed to have been beheaded just off the coast, near a place now called Teach’s Lair.

We sampled several local restaurants. We couldn’t stop at every establishment on the island, but here are some of the best. (Note to readers: We picked up the tab on all expenses throughout the trip. This was a personal vacation rather than a strict journalistic trip).

• The Back Porch features some of the finest cuisine on Ocracoke. Visitors can sit in the air-conditioned dining room or the non-air-conditioned back porch. We chose the porch, and the slight breeze and swirling overhead fans kept everything perfectly cool and atmospheric.

There are many great dishes on the menu, and on previous visits we have tried several selections. For this year’s stopover, we stuck to a tried-and-true favorite: the seafood platter featuring scallops, shrimp, the local catch (Spanish mackerel) and a homemade crab beignet. Vegetables and rice finished the main course. As usual, it was filling and delicious, everything seasoned wonderfully and cooked to perfection. We cleaned our plates and chose to forego dessert after having a calamari appetizer with feta cheese, red onions and Calamata olives. The Back Porch serves dinner daily from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Expect to leave satisfied.

• Dajio is relatively new to Ocracoke Island, and it promises to be a mainstay for some time. Like The Back Porch, it offers an eclectic menu of intricately crafted dishes, many of them featuring local seafood. This isn’t fried scallops and once-frozen clam strips. The chefs are true professionals, and their output speaks for itself.

We tried the shrimp nachos (spicy good), the macaroni and cheese with local lump crabmeat (delectable and an instant favorite dish) and the tempura-fried shrimp wrap (surprisingly spicy and tantalizingly bold in flavor, served with cole slaw and homemade chips). The food was unique and gone within seconds. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served. Live entertainment can be enjoyed in the bar area.

• The Jolly Roger is an institution of Ocracoke, with one of the best spots on the docks of the inlet. It serves affordable, scrumptious food, all in a down-home atmosphere that stresses laughs, libations and live music. The nachos are tasty, and the beer-battered onion rings are memorable. The fish tacos were excellent for two reasons: They tasted great on the taste buds and they were less than $10 (a rarity in Ocracoke restaurants). Try some of the Jolly Roger home brew, only $5 for a pint.

• Although we didn’t make it to Howard’s Pub on this trip, this uber-popular restaurant is a bonafide classic of the island. On previous trips we’ve tried just about everything on the expansive menu. As the first restaurant that ferry riders see in the village, wait times can be long, but you haven’t experienced Ocracoke until you’ve sat for some grub at Howard’s Pub.

• The Ocracoke Coffee Company is perhaps the coolest place on the island. The fruit smoothies and original coffee drinks are made to order by a well-trained, fast-moving staff. The line is appropriately long during the busy season, but it moves quickly and the payoff is worth every minute of waiting. We fell in love with the establishment’s Nuts and Jolts espresso drink (with peanut butter, banana, milk and chocolate syrup) and a strawberry smoothie with some complementary kiwi, banana, apple juice and yogurt. Most drinks cost less than $5.

The third, and arguably best, category for enjoying Ocracoke falls under the beach umbrella. The sands of this faraway island are award-winning and pristine. Keep the California beaches. Keep the Jersey Shore. Keep Long Island. Keep Cape Cod. Ocracoke’s beaches are picturesque and unmatched. There’s a public access area north of the village that features on-site parking, showers and a boardwalk to the beach. Lifeguards are on duty during the day.

Don’t expect enormous crowds. Although Ocracoke has become a tourist destination, the hordes are not as voluminous as the more popular beaches in other states. Find your plot of land, plug your umbrella in the ground and enjoy some well-earned relaxation beneath the pulsating sun.

Another interesting feature of Ocracoke is Springer’s Point Nature Preserve, accessed only by bicycle or on foot. Walk half a mile through a unique forest that has historical ties to Blackbeard. After making your way on the trail for some time, you’ll emerge on a sandy beach with nothing but views of the beautiful ocean and its expansive power. Look close enough and you just might see Blackbeard and his ship on the horizon. It’s a fitting conclusion to a wonderful Ocracoke Island visit.

By John Soltes / Publisher / John@HollywoodSoapbox.com

• The Back Porch, 110 Back Road, www.backporchocracoke.com — No reservations, dinner served nightly from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

• Dajio Restaurant and Bar, 305 Irvin Garrish Highway, www.dajiorestaurant.com — Breakfast, lunch and dinner served daily

• Jolly Roger Pub & Marina, 396 Irvin Garrish Highway, www.silverlakemotelandinn.com/jollyroger — Lunch and dinner served daily

• Howard’s Pub, 1175 Irvin Garrish Highway, www.howardspub.com — Lunch and dinner served daily

• Ocracoke Coffee Co., 226 Back Road, www.ocracokecoffee.com

• Ocracoke Harbor Inn & Suites, 144 Silver Lake Drive, www.ocracokeharborinn.com