INTERVIEW: Climbing to the top of K2 with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

As part of the National Geographic Live! program at the New York University Skirball Center for the Performing Arts, famed mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner will present her suspense-filled story of scaling the heights of the world. Her focus will be on the second highest peak, K2, a mountain in the Himalayas that presents some of the most unique and challenging obstacles in the world.

Kaltenbrunner, a native of Austria, climbed her first 8,000-meter peak at the age of 23. That one was the fore summit of Broad Peak in Pakistan. Since then, she has worked as a nurse on climbing expeditions to the Himalayas and become a professional mountain climber. Mount Everest came in 2010 and Mount Denali in 2013.

She has several claims to her name. Of the 14 high peaks, towering more than 8,000 meters in the air, she has climbed them all without the use of supplemental oxygen. She is the first woman to do so; however, much of her focus in the climbing world is also on the unique cultures of the communities around these high peaks.

Audiences can check out her New York lecture, K2: Danger and Desire on the Savage Mountain, Tuesday, Feb. 23 at 7:30 p.m. Recently, Hollywood Soapbox exchanged emails with Kaltenbrunner about her experiences on K2 and what attendees can expect during her lecture. Questions and answers have been slightly edited for style.

What will audiences learn during your presentation in New York City?

I will take the audience to the [second] highest peak in the world, to K2. The visitors will learn, that with passion, willpower, patience, discipline, but also self reflection and respect for humanity and nature, it is possible to reach your goals and fulfill your dreams.

Scaling the heights of these mountains is an impressive, almost unbelievable feat. Doing so without supplementary oxygen makes the accomplishment that much more impressive and dangerous. What kind of training do you need to forego supplementary oxygen?

I do a lot of stamina training, mountaineering in the alps … in winter back country skiing, cross-country skiing, but also running, mountain biking, swimming, rock climbing. I try to modify my training. High altitude climbing without bottled oxygen needs especially a real good acclimatization. In the beginning, during the approach I hike only as fast as I can breath through my nose. Automatically I walk slower, and as well I drink really a lot … 5-6 liter liquid every day. Never I take medicine, not even an Aspirin … because the most important is to feel my body. If something is wrong (for example, headache), I know immediately that I climbed too fast or drank too less, and it is my self responsibility to react in a right way. Melting snow and drink; however, if this does not help I have to climb down again.

Of the 14 highest mountains, do you have a memory from one that is particularly resonant today?

Yes, it is definitely the memory of K2 Northpillar. This expedition was the most impressive and beautiful but also [the] most challenging and difficult one. Almost every day I think for a moment to this extraordinary time in a very, very remote area.

Your ascent of K2 is legendary, and that mountain has international fame as one of the toughest climbs. What was uniquely difficult about your several attempts at K2?

Most difficult were always the weather conditions and avalanche plus rockfall danger.

It’s a common question for mountain climbers, but why do you climb? Do you have many people in your life saying it’s too dangerous? Do only fellow mountaineers understand the need/desire to climb?

Good question. I climb because I love the mountains, [e]specially the high mountains spread a lot of magic power. I am fascinated by the energy and beauty in it. Also having a big goal — climbing a high mountain, for example, is very motivating. … Also to be reduced to the very essential things you need (like in base camp and on the mountain) makes me very happy.

Of course, there are people around me who are convinced that climbing a high mountain as well without bottled oxygen is too risky. In my opinion, is there always a certain [chance] of risk, even in your daily life. We are aware about the risks, and I did not start from 0 to 8,000. With the experiences I shifted my limits further, tried higher and more difficult mountains. Most important is to know where are your limits and never overstep them.

When did you first become interested in mountaineering?

Already in my childhood. We had a priest in my home village who was a very enthusiastic mountaineer. Already with my age of 7 he took me with some friends to the mountains near the village. Later I went also rock and ice climbing with him, so I became quite early infected by the virus of mountaineering. 🙂

Is there a mountaineering challenge out there that you’d still like to tackle, or one that will forever evade you?

Antarctica is still a big dream of mine but also other areas. For example, in Pakistan are still very beautiful [6,000 and 7,000] meter peaks I would like to climb. The 8,000-meter peaks I have definitely completed. Years ago I thought, maybe I will return to Nanga Parbat, climbing also from the Rupal Side. But after all 14 [8,000-meter peaks] I read again all my diaries I wrote during my expeditions and made me aware, that beside all the intense training, the detailed preparation, the experiences, the great team, I also had good fortune sometimes. I think now it is time to do lower mountains in beautiful remote places. 🙂

By John Soltes / Publisher / John@HollywoodSoapbox.com

• National Geographic Live! with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner takes place Tuesday, Feb. 23 at 7:30 p.m. at the New York University Skirball Center for the Performing Arts. The lecture is titled K2: Danger and Desire on the Savage Mountain. Click here for more information on tickets.